12/7/12

A 2:40am wake-up call, met Kooienga in Denver at 4am and we headed north towards All Mixed Up in RMNP. Those plans were thwarted when we saw a sign in Lyons that RMNP is closed due to the fire. CRAP! Plan B was Officers Gulch just past Frisco. So after several hours in the car, we were finally about to get on some ice. A huge 1/2mile hike along the bike path then slippin' and slidin' to the base of the climb. BK headed off for the lead with double ropes in tow. The first pitch is wide, pretty mellow with sticky ice, ~WI2. Anchors up on the right. The second pitch was about the same, great ice and easy to get sticks... anchor in a bush on the left after a steeper WI3 section. Third pitch had a couple steep parts between mellow sections. Since we were using 60M ropes, we had to simul-climb for a bit to get up to the anchors. Not a big deal, yet fun to practice the art of simul-climbing when we couldn't hear each other and removing ice screws with icy ropes. Up at the V-thread anchor we tried our best to not make a mess of the ropes and setup the rappel. We rapped to another V-thread, rapped to the left anchor, got the ropes stuck, dealt with spaghetti ropes, down to the first anchor, then to the bottom.
A fun few hours despite a rough start! Not a place to climb once any amount of snow piles up due to avy danger.

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